San Juans & Beyond Bike Tour

After a 90-minute shuttle from Seattle we begin by cycling a loop along the shores of laid back and friendly Camano Island – the perfect warm-up for our week of adventure. Pedal past uncrowded beaches along the lapping shore of this artsy island community. Watch your head if you decide to give a nod to the island’s logging history at the Arrowhead Ranch, Camano’s first axe-throwing venue. Ride through the rich and diverse agricultural lands of Skagit River delta – home to several wildlife refuges as well as the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival, one of Washington State’s largest events. In 1869 John Connor purchased a trading post and township on the narrow Swinomish Channel separating Fidalgo Island from the mainland in this fertile region and named it “La Conner” in honor of his wife Louisa A. Conner. Today, this charming town is known as a writer’s enclave, “must-visit” destination, and romantic getaway. Spend tonight at the Channel House or La Conner Country Inn.

No dallying this morning as we have a ferry to catch in Anacortes! Ride across the forested southern end of Fidalgo Island and along the shores of Padilla Bay. Contemplate nature’s horizons against the skyline of industry as flocks of birds from the wildlife refuge circle a neighboring oil refinery. Our first ferry of the day takes us to Lopez Island – the flattest, most rural, and least populated of the three main San Juan Islands. It’s often referred to as the ‘bicyclist’s island’ for its quiet roads, gentle terrain, spectacular marine vistas, and friendly residents who wave as you bicycle past. Ride clockwise around the island, starting with Spencer Spit State Park, then south to Watmough Bay (watch for seals!). Listen to the sound of the waves gently stirring the rocks on the shore at Agate Beach. This is a great day for views of the Olympic Mountains and looking ahead to some of the places you will explore later this week. In the afternoon, we ferry to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island to settle in for the next three nights at Earthbox (or the Discovery Inn).

Hop on a morning ferry to Orcas Island, the largest and most mountainous of the San Juans. Ride to sleepy Deer Harbor and then on to Eastsound. Explore this tiny hub of town and have lunch on your own. Back on the bicycle, pedal to Moran State Park and Cascade Lake. Cycle a series of switchbacks through the last remaining contiguous old-growth forest in the islands up to the summit of Mt. Constitution, the literal high-point of the San Juans. Contemplate how these fresh-water lakes formed on a mountain surrounded by the sea. (Answer: The lakes and springs are fed by the glaciers of Mt. Baker in the distance.) The view from the top of the summit tower – a somewhat ominous replica of the Russian watchtowers constructed in the Caucasus Mountains during the 12th century – is unsurpassed and unforgettable. Cool off with a swim in crystal clear Cascade or Mountain Lake before heading back to catch the afternoon ferry back to Friday Harbor.

Cycle a lovely loop around San Juan Island today, taking in the charming and historic village of Roche Harbor, an alpaca farm, a lavender farm, a sculpture park, a winery, and two waterfront parks which offer the best places to potentially spot orca whales from the land. If history is your thing, stop in at English Camp or American Camp, two national historic parks that were part of the “Pig War” between England and the United States. If you’d rather give the legs a rest today, you can put your arms to good use by going for a paddle with our sister-company, San Juan Kayak Expeditions. Before dinner: stroll about Friday Harbor, visit the Whale Museum, or take in the Art Gallery. Dinner tonight is at the acclaimed Coho Restaurant.

Have an early breakfast before catching the ferry back to Anacortes. Cycle over the 180-foot-high Deception Pass bridge where tidal exchanges between 60-mile-long Whidbey Island (Washington’s longest) and the waters of greater Puget Sound create a spectacular rolling “river” of whitewater through a dramatic chasm. Cycle the northern half of Whidbey through Oak Harbor and past Ebey’s Landing, location of one of the earliest pioneer settlements in the area. Near Fort Casey, one of a triumvirate of forts that served to protect the entrance to Puget Sound during World War II, we catch another ferry over to the Olympic Peninsula and maritime Port Townsend, home of some of Washington’s oldest architecture. Stay at The Swan Hotel or Palace Hotel on the historic waterfront.

Begin the day with a look back over yesterday’s ride from the lighthouse in Fort Worden before setting out on the Olympic Discovery Trail – a recently constructed multi-use path running the length of the north side of the Olympic Peninsula. Pedal along Discovery Bay, named for Captain George Vancouver’s ship, and imagine trying to navigate these islands and channels in a 100-foot rigged sailing ship! Pass through Sequim (pronounced “skwim”), a burgeoning retirement community and fertile agriculture region boasting one of Washington State’s largest lavender festivals. Sitting at the epicenter of the rain shadow formed by the Olympic Mountains and sprinkled by less than 17 inches of rain a year, the area is a virtual desert and home to a native variety of prickly pear cactus. Ride along the Strait of Juan de Fuca right up to the doors of the Red Lion in Port Angeles where we will rest up for tomorrow’s climb. Celebrate a great week with dinner at a local “tavern-chic” favorite, LD’s Woodfire Grill.

Dip your tire in the salt-water before ascending to Hurricane Ridge Visitor’s Center – the high point of our journey as well as the only road (paved or otherwise) into the Olympic Mountains high-country. The overall 5% grade of this climb is relatively steady, making it somewhat easier than the statistics might suggest. Stop for a short breather at the first scenic pullout and look back over your entire journey this week as you transition from the lowland rainforests to mountain meadows and subalpine parklands. Around the next corner, the Olympic Mountain Range spreads out before you in all directions. Revel and breathe in the fir-scented air; it’s some of the purest on the planet! From here, the gradient lessens, and the glorious views are guaranteed to keep you going all the way to the top. Since the National Park Service does not allow commercial tours to ride down Hurricane Ridge, we will spend some extra time at the Ridge. Enjoy lunch with a view at the Visitor’s Center and go for a short hike to loosen up the legs before hopping in the van for the (roughly 3-hour) journey back to civilization. We conclude the trip with a sunset ferry ride from Bainbridge Island into the heart of Seattle’s waterfront.